The men’s collections for next winter are expected to be flashy and voluminous, as indicated by Italian fashion giants Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, and Prada, during the Milan Fashion Week, which took place from January 14 to 18.
Held twice a year, for the spring-summer and fall-winter seasons, Milano Fashion Week Men’s hosted until yesterday the shows of major Italian fashion brands, such as Giorgio Armani, Prada, Tod’s, Ermenegildo Zegna, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, and Kiton, among others. The event also featured live fashion shows and presentations of emerging brands and talents. It is worth noting that the January 2022 edition was held – after an interruption due to the pandemic – in its physical format. Also, during five intense days in Milan, the best of the men’s fashion trends for the next winter season came back to Milano Fashion Week Men’s (or Milano Moda Uomo). On this occasion, the new ready-to-wear and accessories creations for men for the fall-winter 2023 season were previewed to the press and industry professionals. This fashion week is also an opportunity to highlight some of the city’s iconic spaces, including exhibition areas and showrooms, all of which are animated by runway shows, presentations, and other private events by the best Italian designers.
The bling of the 90s
If the Dolce & Gabbana show is to be believed, men will look like stolen cars next winter, but that doesn’t stop us from admiring the graphic and textile prowess of the models presented. Launched on a luminous runway that created a hallucinating visual immersion, the models’ march was punctuated by the rap and punk singer Machine Gun Kelly, first alone on stage warming up the room in a silver fabric suit, and then joined by the first models announcing a collection more blinged out than ever, all of the oversized volumes, psychedelic prints, flashy colors, and metallic highlights. It feels like a 1990s rapper revival, with chains, beaded embroidery, and baroque jewelry swallowed up in grizzly coats. The difference is that this time, technology is involved and we feel like we’re discovering the beginnings of an entry into the Metaverse, a virtual world, and place destined to become unavoidable in the weeks to come, with a total invasion that will begin first and foremost in fashion, NFTs, cryptocurrencies and other virtual tools.
The return of the jacket lent to the companion
At Fendi, we remain in the elegance and leather compensates for fur in a context where the Kering group, which owns the Roman house, has decided to ban this material yet intrinsic to Fendi. For this collection, the artistic director of men’s collections, Silvia Venturini Fendi, goes back to the 1920s, that interwar period when we were catching up in style what the First World War had dissipated in chaos. And this season, where the endemic seems to be replacing the pandemic, also resembles the aftermath of war, which requires us to finally leave our homes and get dressed to meet our fellow human beings. Fendi brings back gingham checks, big coats, Bermuda shorts, and bow ties. The frock coat emphasizes the waist and if the shoulders are wide enough to contain muscles worked during the long confinement, the structure is still the order of the day and the scruffy look has been put off indefinitely. The feminine is invited more than ever in this very chic wardrobe, sweaters are slit and men seem to recover the jackets they have long lent to women, but as is, fitted and sharpened, bust widened and waist narrowed. Brooches, jewels, charms, optional glitter, nestled in the accessory, were added, but they enhanced the sobriety of the clothing proposals, despite some models covered with the double F logo of Fendi, also replicated on the catwalk where the models zigzagged.
A burgundy nylon “shell” and a black picot vest in cashmere and pure virgin wool. Papillon is the iconic garment of Husky’s Fall/Winter 2022/2023 collection and is a 2-in-1 that starts from the brand’s iconic jacket and becomes even more innovative and functional.
Papillon revisits the historic hunting jacket born in 1965 from the idea of American aviator Steve Gulyas and his wife Edna – named Husky after the couple’s dog – with a synthesis of style and comfort, premium fabrics, and performance materials.
Husky’s new iconic jacket was presented with a fashion film inspired by the famous (and eponymous) film Papillon. The short movie traces typical London atmospheres and the brand’s values connected to the territory, mixing them with emotional flashbacks (art, love, and passion) that tell the story of the famous quilted nylon hunting jacket.
Completing Husky’s proposal for AW 2022/2023 are new models, cuts, and colors with a contemporary soul made even more precious by unique details and Made in Italy quality.
The fashion shows calendar for Milano Moda Uomo FW 2023/2024:
14:00 – Gucci – Via Mecenate 77
16:00 – Family First – Location TBC
18:00 – Billionaire – Piazza Della Repubblica 17
19:00 – 1017 Alyx 9SM – Via Achille Maiocchi 7
21:00 – Dsquared2 – Via Perin del Vaga 2
10:30 – MSGM – Via Andrea Maria Ampere 2
11:00 – Emporio Armani – Via Bergognone 59
12:30 – Dolce&Gabbana – Viale Piave 24
14:00 – Fendi – Via Solari 35
15:00 – Jordanluca – Via Valenza 2
17:00 – Federico Cina – Location TBC
18:00 – K-Way – Via dell’Aprica 12
10:00 – Simon Cracker – Via Bergamo 14
11:00 – Magliano – Via Calabiana 6
12:00 – Etro – Via Orobia 15
14:00 – Prada – Via Lorenzini 14
17:00 – Charles Jeffrey Loverboy – Via Valenza 2
19:00 – JW Anderson – Via Tortona 58
10:00 – Giorgio Armani – Via Borgonuovo 21
11:00 – Giorgio Armani – Via Borgonuovo 21
12:00 – Dhruv Kapoor – Via Clerici 5
15:00 – Zegna – Location TBC
10:00 – Children Of The Discordance – Digital
10:30 – MTL Studio – Digital
11:00 – Revenant RV NT – Digital
11:30 – SR Serdar Milano – Digital