A new wave of designers at Milan Fashion Week.
From Act N°1’s political statements to Diesel’s opened show and Blumarine’s mermaids: the real surprises of the just-ended Milan Fashion Week.
Milan Fashion Week has come to an end: after the day of Monday, September 26, dedicated to digital fashion shows, the baton passes to Paris. On the Italian fashion scene, it’s time to draw conclusions: although the Versace, Gucci and Prada show attracted the attention of the international press, the most interesting and innovative ideas came from the lesser-known names on the calendar. Emerging designers and independent brands were noted for their ability to look beyond and not get caught up in easy clichés. These are the names we will be hearing about in the future.
Glenn Martens’ revolution at the Diesel show
The Spring/Summer 2023 Fashion Week is set at a precise historical moment: the pandemic is definitely behind us, but optimism about the future is marked by the Russian-Ukrainian conflict in the background and the energy crisis. So what? Some designers, such as Giorgio Armani, have taken refuge in garments designed to be « reassuring », as the designer himself called them. Others, such as Versace, have given free rein to their unease with a dark fashion show that squeezes out the eye to the rebellion of punk and goth. Others decided to take different paths, such as Diesel, which opened the doors of the salon to employees, students, and fans with a revolutionary decision. The brand designed by Glenn Martens reinterprets without nostalgia the aesthetics of the 2000s, adapting it to the TikTok era: denim that transforms into bandage dresses and lingerie tops in unexpected ways, crocodile
boots, oversize or micro lines. The body is at the center of our attention because the body is political: a giant sculpture of bodies clinging to each other in the middle of the runway reiterates the message.
The extreme fashion of the AC9 brand
Transparencies are one of the strongest trends of Milan Fashion Week: a manifesto of vindication of one’s own body, free from the gaze of others. Alfredo Cortese, designer of the AC9 brand, also rewrites the relationship between the dress and the body, covering and uncovering it in unexpected ways. The garments, fluid and almost genderless, slip or exasperate silhouettes with mermaid tails, structured shoulders and tops as « sharp » as arrows. Lace and transparency add a touch of sensuality to the show’s dark aesthetic. The collection is called Stereotypes, all cleverly demolished.
Act N°1 political fashion show at Milan Fashion Week
Color also on the catwalk Act N°1, which, with the support of Valentino, creates garments inspired by Chinese tradition, playing with volumes and applications. The founders, Galib Gassanoff and Luca Lin, paid the utmost attention to diversity, showing models with hijabs and prostheses. Fashion can and should be political, giving a voice to those who do not feel represented.
Blumarine and its trendy
Among the designers who have been able to intercept the trends of the moment is Blumarine’s Nicola Brognano: two years ago she sent a series of pink, mini and hyper-feminine dresses to the catwalk, openly inspired by MTV pop divas like Britney Spears. This « girly » universe set the trend, anticipating the Barbiecore that has been all the rage for months. This year, Blumarine leaves adolescence behind and sends more adult, restless and mysterious women to the catwalk, like mermaids emerging from the abyss: another announced success.
Cormio « family » fashion show
The Cormio fashion show was also totally unprecedented: the collection designed by Jezabelle Cormio was presented in a villa, furnished as if we were entering our neighbor’s living room on any given Sunday afternoon. But the real revolution was the choice of the models who walked down the catwalk holding their children by the hand. A reflection on the concept of family and on the right to be a mother in the way and at the time that everyone wants (if they want to, in the first place). And that’s not all: the atmosphere of the fashion show, open and cordial, is the furthest thing from the glittering glamour of « traditional » fashion shows. The colorful knitwear, jeans and retro tops are brought down to earth. The message is clear: real clothes for real people.
Dolce & Gabanna
After the great comeback of the leather corset, which drove the stars of the world crazy, comes an even hotter trend for Milan S/S 2023 fashion: the visible garter belt. The Dolce and Gabbana fashion show made this lingerie item really stand out.
A sexy and feminine trend, which can be tried immediately with cut-out or see-through dresses, but also with miniskirts or jacket and shorts suits. In short, the watchword is only one: see-through lingerie!
Beauty, the Fil d’Or by Giorgio Armani
Change, in fashion as in life, is the order of the day. If it is often difficult to stay in line with one’s self – this edition of MFW proved it, with the appearance of unexpected testimonials and many changes in the creative directions of brands – there are those who have always remained true to their vision.
The king in this is Giorgio Armani: among the certainties of the fashion week, as usual at the end of the MFW he returns to stage his personal sense of aesthetics, which is based primarily on beauty and balance. Even when the Fil is d’Or, as in the Giorgio Armani Spring-Summer 2023 fashion show, focused on the color of the brightest stars.
Carlo Capasa, President of the National Chamber for Italian Fashion
“It is an important figure for an extraordinary first half of the year, now we believe we are suffering a bit from the problem of rising energy costs,” Capasa explained. The impact of the energy crisis is important for fashion because the entire upstream supply chain is energy-intensive,” said Carlo Capasa, President of the Camera Nazionale Moda Italiana, during the Milan Fashion Week presentation press conference held this morning at Palazzo Parigi.
Director, Editor of Digital News Fashion & Mr.Carlo Capasa President of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion, and Mr. Maximilian Linz Press Agency & Public Relations.