Men’s Fashion Week dedicated to the fall-winter 2022-23 collections, launched from January 14 to 18, with the participation of 53 brands where 16 of the 23 live shows have been maintained.
Catwalk or not, facing the surge of the variant Omicron? The question was on the minds of the brands participating in the Milan men’s fashion week, which began on Friday, January 14, with a new “phygital” edition mixing physical shows and digital presentations.
Giorgio Armani had thrown a cold by cancelling last week his fashion shows scheduled in January in Milan and Paris because of the new wave of Covid-19. A taste of déjà vu, because it was the 87-year-old maestro who had also been the first to give up the shows at the very beginning of the pandemic, in February 2020.
16 of the 23 live shows were maintained in Milan, including those of major brands such as Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada,Etro, M. Viera, D. Catalan. 18 brands opted for a purely virtual presence; others will present their collections by appointment.
For the Italian Chamber of Fashion, there was no question of giving up the shows. “Fashion Week is our showcase, which serves as an engine” to the recovery of the sector, and it will be “in compliance with the regulations in force,” said its president, Carlo Capasa.
After the dark year of 2020, Italian fashion, including clothing, accessories, eyewear, jewelry and cosmetics, should see its revenues grow by 20.5% to 82.85 billion euros in 2021, but without reaching the pre-pandemic level.
The accreditation and invitationswere not enough to access the fashion shows, where the places were counted. It was now necessary to show a valid vaccination pass and wear a FFP2 mask. Italy has paid a heavy price to the pandemic, with more than 140,000 deaths, and is now experiencing, like other European countries, a strong resurgence of cases, due to the contagious Omicron variant, despite a high vaccination rate.
Optimism in spite of everything
But the time of a fashion show, the pandemic was put in brackets: “moving forward looking at the future with optimism” and “made in Italy” were the watchwords in Milan, commented for AFP Federica Trotta Mureau, editor of the Italian fashion magazine Mia Le Journal.
The men’s Fashion Week dedicated to the fall-winter 2022-2023 collections, was held until Tuesday, January 18th, and ca a été with the participation of 53 brands. The ball was opened by a physical show, but in small committee, Ermenegildo Zegna, which made its debut on Wall Street in December 2021, becoming the first Italian fashion house to be listed in New York.
“The world is changing and so is the way we dress. Formal is becoming informal, high level. We have given a new direction to our brand, based on luxury leisurewear, which generates good results”, explained its CEO Gildo Zegna on this occasion.
Freedom of movement
The trends in men’s fashion? “The new elegance is overshirts, that is to say, very loose and flowing sweaters that perfectly replace shirts,” explains Federica Trotta Mureau. Reflecting men’s freedom of movement in clothing, a foretaste of the end of the pandemic, “the stars of the new collections are oversized down jackets that protect against the cold, and nylon pantspadded,” says the fashion expert. Among the must-haves, shealso cites “quiltedcoatscinched at the waist, dressing gowns in pastel shades, sartorial jacket and trouser sets and leather jackets”.
The colors? “Pretty bright but also monochromatic outfits in camel green and gray tones with touches of terracotta”, sometimes matched with “patterns such as stripes, houndstooth and Prince of Wales”.
“The focus is on accessories, which are a real must-have, including maxi bags inspired by the world of travel, to get around town with everything on you,” she conclude with hercomments.
Among the fall-winter 2022/2023 men’s fashion shows, Fendi’swasamong the mostawaited brand on the catwalk. For the upcomingwinterseason, Silvia VenturiniFendicollaborates with herdaughter Delfina Delettrez-Fendi for the jewelry and with the artist Nico Vascellari (alreadyknown at Fendi) for the staging and direction of the fashion show. It opened with psychedelic lights and a scenario halfwaybetweenthat of a nightclub and an aseptic operating room. The models parade on a catwalk in the shape of a double F, the logo of the house, designed by Vascellari.
DOLCE & GABBANA
Everyonehashisown style: aftertwoyears of paralysis, the creators are rediscovering the desire for happiness. “Wedon’t know if it’s the right way, but it’s been a long time sincewehadthismuch fun”, said Dolce &Gabbana.
Machine Gun Kelly and Megan Fox : the mostexpected couple of Milan at the Dolce &Gabbana fashion show. He enchanted the audience on the catwalk by taking care of the music and changingthree looks. She, beautiful in the front row, applaudedhim with delight.
The celebrity moment on the Dolce & Gabbana catwalk goes by the name of Machine Gun Kelly, who recently proposed to American model and actress Megan Fox. Indeed, she was seated in the front row and, during one of her three parades in three different looks imagined by the brand, the American rapper even left his jacket.
A greatrepresentantfrom Portugal at the Milan Fashion Week. David Cataláncreatesclothesdesigned for everydaylife ;they are colorful and with unusual combinations. The designer’s goal is to combine a classic style with a more risque one, always in the name of high quality. David Catalán’smen’swardrobe mixes eleganttailoredpieces with edgyaccessories and oversized streetwear pieces.
David Catalán launched his collections with a considerable success in this Fall/Winter MFW.
MIGUEL VIEIRA Hewasborn in São João da Madeira, heis one of the mostrenownedPortuguese designers. He beganhiscareer as a fashion designer in 1986. Twoyearslaterhefoundedhisown brand and made hisdebut on the catwalks with a collection of women’sclothing. Soon, the brand’s portfolio will expand with the shoes line (Miguel Vieira Calçado) – for men and women – and with the accessories line, up to the high jewelery collection in 2006. With the Miguel Vieira Casa line, isalso a point of reference in the furniture and decoration sectors.
For Autumn/Winter 2022, Brioni’s creative director, Norbert Stumpfl, was inspired by the “Allegory of Air”, the painting by Jan Bruegel the Elder exhibited at the Galleria Doria Pamphilj in Rome, birthplace of Maison Brioni.
“I wasmesmerized by this painting for a long time,” said the designer. “I wanted to capture the image of air, bothimmaterial and essential, trying to create substance in the absence of weight.”
The collection, conceived as a real lifestyle wardrobe, speaks of versatility and isdesigned to support a dynamic and demanding lifestyle. The classicouterwearistransfigured by creating new, fluid and eclectic concept garmentsthat go far beyond the concept of jacket to embracethat of “outerwear”. Hybrid and refinedgarments, synthesis of functions of use and different styles, without a defined connotation, whichlendthemselves to personalinterpretationsbased on use or needs. The samegarmentlendsitself to becoming a shirt, jacket or jacket based on the style of each.
Brightly colored hooded sweaters, wool maxi ponchos, oversized down jackets, big hair and folk-flavored garments, mixed with technical details and nylon pieces, parade on Dsquared2’s Fall/Winter 2022-2023 mens wear runway on the first day of Milan Fashion Week.